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Q1 Plans Chapter 20 Page 20-3


At this point, the completed canard should be jigged upside down.

Basically, each wheel pant is jigged in place using lumber for bracing, then the toe-in and camber is checked, which usually necessitates some adjustment to th lumber bracing. When everything is jigged properly, 5-Minute blobs are used to attach the pant to the canard and a piece of lumber is attached between the LG4 insert and the canard so that the assembly will not move.

Begin by rigging the wheel pant in the approximate position. Bracing is used to keep it firmly fixed. Sight thru the axle holes keeping the two holes in the wheel pant concentric (like sighting thru the sights on a gun). Move the wheel pant until the line of sight approximately intersects the other canard tip where the axle holes on that wheel pant will be located. Bondo the lumber in place.

Next, repeat the operation with the other wheel pant except that now you can actually sight on the opposing wheel pant axle holes.

The objective is to be able to sight through each wheel pant and see the other wheel pant axle hole lined up in the “sight’. The process is iterative until you can confirm that a bullet fired along the sightline through each wheel pant will go right thru the opposite wheelpant axle holes. At this point you have 0 toe-in and 0 camber, which is what you want. Some minor trimming of the canard tip may be necessary so that the wheelpant fits flush against the canard tips.

Now, turn the canard over and jig it right side up, being careful not to change the alignment of the wheel pants.

Quickie Sighting the Axle Holes

Q1 Plans Chapter 20 Page 20-4

Shape a piece of green or blue foam to fit the hole in the top of LGl0 where it joins the canard tip. Next, remove the foam, put in f lox corners where shown, and layup two BID, lapping up on all faces of LG10, as well as the canard tip. Before the layup becomes tacky, position the foam block with micro in place. Make sure that no voids larger than 1/16” exist in the bonding. Let this setup cure.

Now you are ready for the fun part, contouring the wheel pants! Several templates are provided to help with the task. Before starting, look at the canard tips and the pictures provided to visualize what you want the finished product to look like. The templates are provided to help, but use your eyeballs to develop a pleasing shape. Some points to remember are as follows:

  1. LG4 should remain .025" thick at the axle hole.
  2. A small pant will be lighter and cleaner looking, so don't leave excess foam on the pant.

After the wheel pant is carved you are ready to glass the wheel pant. First, put in the flox corners as shown; then layup two BID over the outside face of the canard. Lap up on the canard a minimum of 1.5” and use a minimum of 1” overlap wherever else you overlap the cloth. After this layup has cured, remove the lumber jigging from the inside face of the wheel pant, touchup the inside face contouring if needed, and then glass two BID on the inside face..

Also, the flagged UNI stiffeners will have to be laid up, using the same technique as you did earlier. (See Section B-B)

Quickie Attaching the Wheel Pants