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Q-talk 93 - Q-tips Builder Hints

Bud Starnes, Mt. Vernon , IN

Don't forget to put a grounding strap on the plane somewhere, and go to an earth ground, before you start painting. A lot of static electricity can build up on a plastic plane by just wiping it down and getting it ready to spray. The ground strap will dissipate the static and allow the paint to lay down.. It will also prevent drawing the little fuzzies that are floating around in the paint booth

If you're interested in electronic ignition systems, check out www.racerpartswholesale.com and go to the direct ignition systems by Electromotive Engine Controls. This the is same EI that Jeff Rose sells at Electroair, sorry Jeff, and it's available for a 4, 6, or 8 cyl engine. The cost is less also!

Bruce Crain, Enid, OK Elevator Springs

Work with your sparrow strainers until you get things neutral for cruise without the friction lock tightened. You will then find that no matter what attitude you are in, climb, descent, or cruise, you will have a much more stable pitch. Plus you will have light stick forces in pitch throughout. Art Jewett turned the light on for me in this area and it has made all the difference.

Sam Hoskins, Murphysboro, IL Taping the Inside of the Tail Cone

Here is THE way to do it, but it's a two person job.

First, unless it's too late, don't install the bulkhead until AFTER the inside of the tail cone is done. It makes no difference structurally in which order you do this. It's a lot easier to wait.

I assume you already know about the wetting tape out on cellophane trick.

Hook up a pulley to a tall ceiling or a tree and thread a rope to the tail stinger. Wet up the two tapes and briefly set them aside. Have your partner hoist the tail cone way up in the air. Assume the Statue of Liberty pose, substituting the brush for the torch. Have your friend lower the cone over you. Wet your epoxy brush and apply pure epoxy to the area to be taped, full length. Raise the cone and pick up your tape. Lower the cone again and tape the seam. Leave the plastic on until you have taped the opposing seam. If you are a real glutton for punishment, repeat with peel ply. Trust me on this one.

Steve Webster, Alexandria, VA

Resin can be warmed in the microwave to make it cure faster and seemingly, to cure harder. 8 seconds is enough to make a difference. 25 seconds is too much. This length of time will cause it to foam over.

Susie Richardson, Stow, OH Pantyhose in the Hanger

I know some of you traditional, macho guys are saying, "What? Pantyhose in the hanger! Sacrilege!" Well they can have a place there and can be a handy, time-saving tool. The texture of the material lends itself well for removing bugs from canopies and wings. Even a small piece, the size of your hand, is more abrasive than a paper towel or cloth and yet will not harm surfaces. They could also be used to polish other parts of the plane. Next time your wife or significant other disposes of a pair, ask if you could have them. She may look at you funny but they really will have a use.

Fabricate Your Own Front Spinner Bulkhead

Option 1:

Jim Doyle, Springfield, IL

I bought a spinner from Aircraft Spruce and made a front bulkhead out of fiberglass (I like to work with a medium I understand). First I made a male mold from composition board. I measured the position of the bulkhead from the back of the spinner and then determined the diameter of the front bulkhead. I cut the 3/4 in. particle board 3/16 ths smaller to allow for the 3 layers of glass. I then beveled the front of the board to the taper of the spinner. I sanded it to a fine finish, sprayed it with varnish, applied a liberal coat of wax for a parting agent and laid it up. After the glass cured, I routed out the particle board in 3 or 4 segments with a Dremel tool, drilled the prop bolt holes and applied one or 2 layers of electrical tape to the outer edge to keep the fiberglass from abrading the aluminum. Mine has about 400 hrs on it and still runs true with no cracks.

Option 2

Jim Patillo, Fremont, CA

I made my front spinner bulkhead. First, cut a piece of aluminum (appropriate thickness and diameter) the right size for the front of the hub. Then measure and drill prop bolt holes. Cut clear tubing and install around the radius. When the spinner is installed, the bulkhead should be a snug fit. I have 280 hours on it and not a sign of cracking.



You can order a printed copy of Q-talk #93 by using the Q-talk Back Issue Order Page.