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Q-talk 87 - Q-tips - Building Hints

Cutting Small Spacers

Dave Chalmers, Redmond, NM

I needed some of those tiny spacers you use with the rod-end bearings and I found a great way to cut them. Use a Dremel with a 90-degree drive attachment and a cutting disc. (I use the 90-degree drive all the time. It is much easier to hold onto.) Chuck the piece of 4130 steel tubing into your drill press. Hold the Dremel with the back of the 90-degree drive flat on the drill press table and the output shaft pointing straight up. Move the drill press table up and down until you get the length set for the spacer you require. Start the drill press, start the Dremel and cut off the end of the tubing. The Dremel doesn't have to be held perfectly vertical. You can make the spacer as thin as you like and both sides of the cut will be at right angles. Another big advantage of this method is the cut is clean and does not require any filing or any other work prior to use.

Removing Problem Phillips Head Screws

Terry Crouch, Bettendorf, IA

Snap-On Tools sells ACR removal hex-drive Phillips head tips that incorporate serrations in the inside surfaces of the tip to help grab worn out screws. You can also try applying valve grinding or lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver to help get a better grip in the screw slots of problem screws.

Airhart Performance Products

Marion Brown, Plantation, FL

I am rebuilding my Airhart brakes and if anyone needs parts they can contact Dave at Airhart Performance Products, Inc. in Tempe, AZ. Their phone number is (480) 449-3660 and fax number is (480) 449-3661.

Roll Trim

Dave Carlson, Tucson, AZ

I designed a roll trim on my Q2 that I can adjust to relieve stick pressures. I cut the elevator torque tube inside the cockpit where I could easily reach it and welded tabs near the edge of the cut ends. I found tubing that would fit inside the elevator tube and welded a large washer midway on the smaller tubing to stabilize the area that was cut when finished. Next, I cut two blocks of aluminum that would fit between the tabs welded on the torque tubes and not interfere with the stabilizing washer. I drilled and tapped the aluminum blocks to bolt to the tabs but allowing them to move slightly. Then I drilled the two aluminum blocks and tapped the lower block so a large bolt could be run through both of them. The bottom of the bolt head rests on the top aluminum block. I welded a large washer on the top of the adjustment bolt and threaded it into the two aluminum blocks. I found that only a quarter turn is needed when I fly with a passenger to relieve the pressure.

You can order a printed copy of Q-talk #87 by using the Q-talk Back Issue Order Page.