QuickTalk 1 - QUICKIE HINTS
- Category: Q-Talk Articles
- Published: Sunday, 28 February 1982 06:11
- Written by Jim Masal
- Hits: 2348
From Will Hubin, #295
1. (Page 17-11) We tried using asbestos sheet as a spacer for the carburetor heat muff. It worked fine until a place worked its way loose and was drawn into the carburetor. Luckily, an airport was within gliding distance; now an aluminum spacer, attached with flush rivets does the job.
2. (Large tire option) Other Quickie builders have told us that they also found that the tires rubbed in the main gear housing. We would suggest to new builders that interior clearances be increased if they want to use the stock large tires.
3. (Page 17-3) We mounted the voltage regulator on the horizontal aluminum sheet that serves as an air baffle for the right cylinder. The regulator has worked fine, but we now blame the extra mass for causing the failure of tabs holding the baffling to the engine as well as the failure of some tabs for holding the cowling to the lower fuselage bulkhead. We think the solution will be coupling mechanically to a mounting tab on the engine below the regulator to limit the amplitude of oscillations.
From Marc Herman, #257
1. (Page 5-3) Check for an error in your plans for cutting the foam for the canard - left side. /Ed. Note: Note also QPC #10/
2. (Page 7-2 Scoring the orange foam and filling the cut marks with micro was easier and more accurate than heat for forming the gas tank and seat back.
3. (Page 15-1) Your instrument panel bulkhead will not permit instruments to extend through after you try to mount the panel.
4. (Page 17-1) Check your "punch marks" for the engine holes on the ES-2 - now measure those on the engine itself. Mine would not match up.
5. (Page 17-3) My ignition coil mount of aluminum cracked in 40 hours. Make it of 4130 steel and save the task of changing. /Ed. Note: Reference QPC #32/
6. (Page 17-11) Both my exhaust stacks broke; first to go was the one with the heat muff - 20 hours - the other after another 25 hours. Suggest a reinforcement weldment at the attachment upon the pipe for 1 or 2 inches.
7. (Page 17-6) Mount your cowling back of the prop by at least 3 inches for cooling.
8. (Page 17-9) Do mount the hose side of the carb heat box at a 45-degree angle and downwards toward the exhaust stack. /Ed. Note: Reference QAC Newsletter No. 4/
9. (Page 17-14) Swap places with the throttle control wire and the short rod going to the carb - it can be bent to clear the carb.
10. (Page 19-4) Overfill all low places or areas on the fuselage, wing and canard with dry micro. Use a long sanding board to remove the high spots before Feather-fill is applied.
11. (Page 11-1) Small holes in the wheel pants at the proper distance permits inserting a valve extension to air up the tires.
From Jerry Mahurin, #468
1. (Page 7-2) To make straight line bends in PVC foam as on the gas tank, heat a couple of 3/4" or 1" pipes in a 300-degree oven. Wrap pipes in brown paper. Apply pipes to each side of foam on bend line until foam starts to give. Remove pipes and hold foam in bent position until foam hardens - about 1 minute.
From Richard Pettit, #374
1. (Page 7-11) I found the rearmost bulkhead, 153.7, almost impossible to install. To solve the problem, I used a piece of orange foam, cut to proper size and then cut a generous hole in the middle. I could then glass tape the front edges, complete with the micro radius by working through the hole. After curling, the foam could easily be cut away leaving the tapes intact. The fiberglassed bulkhead could then be pressed in place, using dry micro and the rear edges taped in the usual manner.
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