[QBA Editor's Note: These photos are from a copy of the plans I received in the mail. If you have a better copy of the plans photos, please contact me so that they can be included below. Thanks!]
The nose gear assembly consists of the fork unit, main steelspring unit and the rear attach slip unit. Due to builder variationsand differences between the GU and LS canard, we use the rear attachslip piece to allow for these variations.
Prepare the aircraft for nose gear installation by removingany foam that might be present in an area 1" wide and centered onthe bottom of the canard. This will allow the gear to nest directlyagainst the canard bottom. A larger foam removal area must be madedirectly below the shear web (on the GU canard) or below the sparon the LS canard. This will allow the rear attach slip unit tobolt directly in front of the shear web on the GU or directly tothe spar on the LS canard. On the GU canard, this cut out areashould be enlarged to 3"x3" and, after sanding, a three bid lay-upapplied. The LS canard does not require any additional preparationas there are already numerous glass lay-ups in this area.
Now trial fit the gear into position with the slip unit inplace. With the nose tire installed and the fuselage position at22-1/4" firewall to floor and 28-1/4" split line to floor, thetire should just touch the floor. An aluminum spacer can be fabricatedand placed between the rear attach slip unit and the wing ifmore tire clearance is needed or the front firewall bracket can bedropped a maximum of 1/4" if less clearance is needed. If you dropthe front, an aluminum spacer block must be fabricated and placedbetween the gear and the wing so landing loads are spread to thewing and not on the four firewall attach bolts only. If the tireis within 1/4" either way, no further adjustments are necessary.
with the gear still in position mark the two rear attach holepositions. This should be within 1/4" and in front of the shearweb on the GU canard and centered on the spar of the LS canard.Drill through the wing using an 8" or longer 1/4" drill. Keepthe drill bit as vertical as possible so the exit holes on thetop side will look semi professional. Now fabricate a 1/8" aluminum"washer" about 1-1/2"x3" and place over the top through holes,mark and drill the 1/4" holes.
Bolt the rear slip unit into place and position the nose gearinto its approximate position. Level the fork using a good carpenter'slevel and place enough weight on the nose tire to firmlyimplant the gear against the firewall and bottom of the wing.Drill the 1/4" firewall attach holes one at a time and inserta 1/4" bolt to hold while drilling the remaining holes. Tightentwo of the bol ts and re-check everything.
Now mark the position of the rear attach slip unit on the steelgear. This is to establish a common reference for drilling the 1/4"holes through the slip unit. It isn't easy to achieve a good alignmentso take your time and make sure everything is in good positionbefore drilling the 1/4" holes.
Bolt the slip unit into place and then bolt the entire nosegear into position. Check for alignment and make sure there is nointerference between firewall bolts and any other parts of theengine. Adjust the fork fricti9n lock so there is about a 6 lb.force needed to move the tire when a horozontal force is appliedto the tire at the rearmost point. The friction will need to bechecked for the first ten hours or so to insure proper dampening.
You can now proceed with the fairing installation as previouslyoutlined.
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NOTE:
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We have not had the opportunity to install the gear in theQ200. Therefore, a careful check of the clearance betweenthe gear and oil sump is needed. In the event the drainshould interfere, the entire nose gear can be offset enoughto clear this drain. If a problem exists, call for assistance. | |
Cut 68 pieces of uni 2-1/4" x 11". Cut 68 pieces of bid 2-1/4" x 3-1/4". Cut 68 pieces of bid 2-1/4" x 2-1/4". Wet out 17 plies of uni 2-1/4" x 11" on a piece of paper or plastic, not wax paper. Usually you can wet out two to three layers at a time. Squeege out excess epoxy but make sure not to make it dry.
Paint a coat of epoxy over the attach section of the gear for and aft over the plywood blocks. Peel the 17 plies of uni off the paper and lay it across the gear and down the taped face of the plywood blocks. This should more than cover the surfaces. Now lay-up 17 plys of bid 2-1/4" x 3-1/4" on a piece of paper, squeege excess epoxy, peel off the paper, and apply on top of the uni, and lapped up over the leading edge of the tab. Now lay-up anotheJC 17 p1ys of bid 2-1/4" x 3-1/4" and apply to the trailing edge of the gear on the tab. Your outside lay-up is now done.
Wrap saran wrap over your lay-up and smooth it out. This should be enough to hold everything in place for cure. If it starts to creep more than a little, you should get a small piece of 1/4" plywood and a small "c" clamp and clamp with just enough pressure to hold everything in place. Large "C" clamps will not work because they are too heavy.
After this lay-up has fully cured you should trim or saw the glass tabs down to the plywood blocks. Now, using a 3/8" bit in a drill, drill a hole as close to the center of the 5/8" hole in the jigging block as possible. Now chuck the 1/4" dia. x 10" long steel rod into your drill, insert it from the rear through your 3/8" hole, then screw the 5/8" dia. spot fac-e tool onto the end of the 1/4" rod. Locate the spot face in the 5/8" hole in the plywood jigging block on the forward tab. Drill through slowly so you don't build up a lot of heat and melt it. Drill through all 34 layers of glass. Now, take the tool apart and repeat the procedure on the other tab.
Now chisel the plywood blocks out as well as the bondo that might be left on the gear. Sand the tabs on the insides, and any area where you are going to glass that might need smoothed out. Mix up some flox (small amount) and, using your finger, put some in the corner between the glass tab and the gear. Make a nice radius with your finger so the glass will flow nicely.
Assuming you now have the gear jigged upright, coat the inside faces of the tabs and the gear between them with epoxy. Using the same method as before, lay-up 17 uni 2-1/4" x 10" and apply from tab to tab. Stipple the uni down in the corners against the flox. Next, same as before, wet out 17 layers of bid 2-1/4" x 2-1/4" and lay them on the glass tabs down onto the gear on top of the uni. This is done for both front and rear tabs. These layups should stay just fine.
Now, using the 10" extension and the spot face tool, drill out the holes from both sides, then all the way through from one side to another.
Drill eight (8) to ten (10) 1/8" holes in those aluminum tubes on the top half of them where they will see glass.
Sand the tube so it is dull and rough. Now, insert the tube assemblies with their bushings in place and slide the gear back in place up in the fuselage. Put the AN6-74A bolts through to lock it in place. Now, check to make sure everything lines up and the gear pretty much splits the hole down the center. Scribe some marks on the aluminum tubes on each side of the glass tabs. These will be used to line the tubes up for floxing and glassing. If you are installing the belly board, you might want to work on that for a while to get the board fitted. After you are finished with that, remove the gear and jig it upright so you can permanently attach those aluminum tubes. Remove the tubes, sand the insides of all tabs as well as a two (2) inch stripe between them, and reinsert them using wet flox where the tubes go through the tabs. Get some scrap urethane foam and fill the area under the tube to the gear. There shouldn't be much room under there. You may also use pour in place foam then sand to a smooth transition. Cut four (4) BID big enough to fit over the tubes, up onto the tabs, and onto where you sanded earlier. Use two (2) BID for each side, micro the foam, and glass. After this lay-up cures, trim and sand the transition smooth.
At some point in the conversion process it will be necessary to modify the tail assembly. If your airplane has been completed as a tail dragger, you will need to cut off the tail spring in line with the trailing edge of the rudder. Some grinding and bondo work may be needed for cosmetic clean up.
Pull the old rudder cables forward enough no allow a fuselage clean-up where the cables exited the sides. Align and drill with a 1/4" snake drill bit (12" long) new rudder cable holes in line with the rudder bellcrank horn. Insert and flox in place a piece of 3/16" nylaflow tubing long enough to clear the rear most bulkhead.
Re-route the rudder cables through the nylaflow and check for proper alignment. Do not connect cables until everything else is completed. You then can adjust rudder peddle position by shortening or lengthening the cables. Once this is finished, attach the cables using the AN-115-21 cable shackles, AN-100-4 cable thimbles, the 18-2-G nicropress sleeves. Check for full rudder travel.
The belly board was developed to provide an effective means of increasing the rate of descent and preventing excessive float on landing.
It is designed to operate in the speed range of 120 MPH down to minimum pitch buck speed. In the prototype, no adverse conditions existed that prevented use through this speed range. Take-off and climb to 4500 ft. at 1000 Ibs. gross was accomplished with full deployment. Rate of climb suffers/as you might know but it can be done safely.
The board is made trom the piece removed for main gear installation and cannot be fitted until the glassing is complete for the main gear. The board is hinged from the rear and cable retracted.
STEP #1. Trim board until it fits within the space provided. This should be done with the main gear installed and the gear to fuselage fairings installed.
STEP #2. Trim inside foam as illustrated:
STEP #3. Cut a piece of 1/4" plywood 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" and micro into foam cut out as illustrated:
STEP #4. Glass over entire inside surface with one layer of bid cloth. Add one extra layer of bid at the hinge attach area. This will be a 2" x 12" piece of cloth.
STEP #5. Trial fit board into position and trim to approximately 1/16" gap all around. Main gear can now be removed.
STEP #6. Trim MS 20257 P4 aluminum hinge to approx. 11-1/2" Drill 12 - 1/8" holes equally spaced on both sides of hinge.
Cut hinge pin to 11-1/4" and install in hinge. Crimp both ends of hinge to hold pin in position. This can be done with a flat punch and hammer. (Some hinges may already have hinge pin installed)
STEP #7. Hinge can now be installed onto speed brake by clamping to the aft side of board, centered, with approx. 1/16" of the hinge extending beyond the aft edge of board.
Drill the 12 - 1/8" holes from the hinge side. If Clecos are available, use on every other hole to ensure alignment. Countersink holes and attach using the BSC 44 flush pop rivets.
STEP #8. Drill the 1" x 1" x 1" aluminum angle with two 5/32" holes and one 1/4" hole as shown:
STEP #9. Attach the 1" x 1" x 1" aluminum angle over the previously installed 1/4" plywood plug, using the MS 24694-S9 FH machine screws and AN 364-B32A nuts.
STEP #10. Using C clamps, install board into position clamping hinge to the previously installed bulkhead. Adjust so board is flush with bottom surface of aircraft.
Drill and install AD 43 BS pop rivets.
STEP #11. Apply bondo to both front corners of board and close to align leading edge with fuselage. Hold until bon do sets.
STEP #12. Apply a 3/8" piece of thin tape (plastic packaging tape works well) along the fuselage just ahead of speed brake. Sand 2" back of front edge of board and 2" in front of board on fuselage to prepare for glassing.
STEP #13. Cut two pieces of bid cloth; one 4" x 24" and one 3" x 24" and apply equally spaced over previously prepared surfaces.
When in the green stage, knife trim just ahead of tape and let cure overnight.
STEP #14. After cured, knock hinged board loose from front edge, remove tape, and sand to a clean fit. With the exception of finish and painting, board is now ready for cable actuator.
STEP #15. Using the paper, full sized template, cut the 1/8" aluminum actuator bracket and file smooth. Actuator is installed using the hand brake mounting pad and bolts. You will need to make plywood spacers to position bracket for alignment with existing arm rest brake handle cut out. Trial fit and then remove.
STEP #16. Using the provided 1/2" OD .065 wall aluminum tubing, cut a slot 5/32" wide and long enough to clear ratchet cuts when bolted to the lower attach hole. Slot should not be so long as to allow arm to exte~past rear stop. Temporarily attach with the AN 3-7A bolt and 364-1032A nut.
STEP #17. Using the provided 5/8" OD x .049 wall aluminum tubing, cut a 5/32" slot in one end 7/8" up from the end .
Cut and roll as illustrated for the spring attach. See full sized drawings for instructions. Spring attach tab is cut with a pointed hacksaw blade or numerous small drilled holes connected by hacksaw blade cut.
STEP #18. Slide the 5/8" tubing over 1/2" tubing and align slot over 1/8" aluminum attach bracket with spring tab to the inside (cockpit side).
It will probably be necessary to increase slot depth on the forward side to the 5/8" tubing to provide a solid down seat on the rear slot. Cut the other end of the 5/8" tubing so that at least 3/4" of the 1/2" tubing extends past the end.
STEP #19. Temporarily re-install the bracket into the aircraft and check for fit. Now draw a straight line from the arm rest forward to the aluminum tubing with the tubing in the full aft position (the original slot might need enlarging to achieve full travel).
Now remove the assembly from the aircraft, measure down 3/8" and drill a 3/16" hole through both tubings.
Remove 5/8" tubing from 1/2" tubing and proceed to elongate the 3/16" hole to make a 3/16" slot. This is done on the 1/2" tubing only. This slot will extend up from the original hole long enough to allow the outer tubing to slide up over the inner tubing (with a 3/16" eye bolt in the hole) so that the two can move through their entire travel. Remember -- the 5/8" tubing will have a 3/16" hole, the 1/2" tubing will have a 3/16" slot.
STEP #20. Re-thread the 3/16" eye bolt (10-32) (AN 42-14) back to within 5/8" of the base.
Install into hole and run the AN 364-1032A nut to where two threads extend through. Install spring and test for full travel.
Re-install assembly to airplane.
STEP #21. Fabricate a 1/4" plywood plate per picture:
Groove curved section to fit the 3/16" nylaflow tubing. Five-minute epoxy this bracket to the center of the seat back bulkhead in line with the aluminum 1" x 1" angle previously attached to the belly board
STEP #22. Drill 3/16" hole in seat back bulkhead just aft of pilot armrest and run 3/16" nylaflow through and within 2" Of actuator. Lock in place using one MS 21919 DG3 clamp and surplus 6-32 or 8-32 machine screw and nut.
Route the nylaflow up and over pilot baggage opening cut out in bulkhead and fasten in both corners with MS 21919 clamps.
Extend down to plywood tab and five-minute to tab contour.
After five-minute has cured, sand area around tab and secure the tubing to the seat back bulkhead using two layers of bid cloth. Secure tubing every 4" using two layers of bid cloth.
STEP #23. Run 3/32" cable through nylaflow and attach at belly board as illustrated.
Tighten bolt only enough to allow free movement.
STEP #24. Attach to actuator as illustrated:
Pull tight before crimping nicropress with actuator arm in the closed position.
Extra threaded portion of eye bolt is for fine adjustment.
STEP #25. Fabricate a wooden plug for the top end of the 1/2" aluminum actuator arm and press fit. (NOTE: Ski pole handgrips work fine for a finished look. 3/4" aluminum thumb portion extends out through the top of hand grip·)
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