CANARD CORES

The outboard and inboard canard cores are cut from skewed, parallelogram style blocks, with the exception of the canard center section. The reason for this is to obtain the proper sweep of the canard when the cores are jigged together later.

Begin by squaring up the 10" x 20" X 96" nominal dimension block of polystyrene foam to obtain a length of 51.2", with the skew as indicated. Next, using the sketch provided, hot-wire the outboard canard foam cores. Note that the bottom set of templates are upside down, so as to obtain the proper geometry upon jigging.

Next, find the extra pieces from the 10" x 24" blocks (2) and face them up to the dimensions shown. These two blocks are used for the inboard elevator cores and inboard canard cores. The portions not used will be used later for the outboard elevator cores.

Don't forget the cutouts for the elevato0 torque tubes. After the elevator cores have been hot-wired, cut along one of the lines (e.g.4-A-B) and hot wire down that slot and around the inside (e.g. 4-A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-B-A-4) and out again. Then cut along the other line (e.g. 4-F) and hot-wire along that slot to complete the cut.

Finally, locate the remaining part of the 10" x 20" block and size it as shown, in order to make the canard center section. Keep the unused portion for cutting the vertical fin, so don1t make the height over 6.0". Note the the 0.6" taper dimension is to allow for the proper anhedral angle upon assembly in the canard female jigging templates.

Take the two canard template BL48.8 and BL15 and remove the 33-A-B-C-D-E-F-38 notch in each template. Then, hot-wire the canard stiffener out of each inboard canard and canard center section foam core, being care ful to line the templates up properly. Store the stiff eners carefully to avoid damage.

OUTBOARD ELEVATOR CORES

Find the two pieces of foam that you saved after hot-wiring the inboard canard cores. (The areas are marked 'save' on the sketches). Add some additional scrap pieces, being careful to obtain proper skew throughout the setup, and make the inboard elevator cores. The template offsets are necessary to obtain the proper geometry.

Hot wire for the elevator torque tubes like you did on the inboard elevator cores.

JIGGING THE CANARD

Next, you will need to jig the canard cores on the jig table. It would probably be a good idea to clean off the jig table of any bondo chips, wood, epoxy, etc., so that you start with a clean surface.

Find the canard core female jigging templates (6)

Now study the sketches. The canard cores are jigged upside down on the jigging table using the canard core female jigging templates. If your table is not at least 200 inches long, you will have to extend it like you did on jigging the main wing. As on the main wing, the shear web is perpendicular to WL00, and the canard core female jigging templates have leading and trailing edges that are tangent, respectively, with the leading edges of the canard, and the canard shear web.

Begin by drawing a straight line along your jigging table and marking the locations (BL's) of the canard core female jigging templates. Next, temporarily set the cahard core female jigging templates on the jigging table so that their trailing edges are the distances from the straight line, called out in the accompanying illustrations. Note that the outboard canard core female jigging templates (the ones at BL100 right and BL100 left) are right on the straight line. A string stretched spanwise with a weight attached at either end may be helpful in establishing and keeping the straight line.

Now begin to trial fit the five canard cores into position. Be careful in handling the foam cores to prevent damage to the foam. All cores may have to be sanded in order to make them fit together within the maximum tolerance of 1/16". The canard center section core is already beveled to compensate for the anhedral angle, but it may still have to be trimmed and sanded to obtain the fit on the joint within 1/16". The level lines on all cores must remain level at all times. This is important, so take your time.

Stand back and sight spanwise along the canard to verify that the canard is straight, and is not bowed or kinked. Verify that the leading edges are straight, and that the trailing edges are straight also.

Don't be concerned if the canard core female jigging templates need to be moved inboard or outboard to remove any bows or kinks. Also, a long straight edge will help you looking for kinks and joggles, or dips.

When everything is perfect, mix up some bondo and carefully bondo the canard core female jigging templates to the table top in the necessary location. Next, rest the canard cores on the canard core female jigging templates. Check the alignment and individual level lines again; then again and again until every thing is Perfect, with a capital P. The next step is to join the foam cores together with micro slurry after verifying that the core fit is within 1/16". Check, recheck, and re-recheck each core level line and alignment as the cores are joined.

Note that the canard center section foam core gets a glass rib of 2 BID and flox corners at each end of the canard center section foam core. The flox corner should be added after the entire series of canard cores have been joined and cured.

These 2 BID at 45° at the BL15 joint "Glass Ribs" (highlighted in RED above) seem important - Yet there is really no discussion in the Q2 plans about how to create them. In the Q2 Plans the "Glass Ribs" are only hinted at twice in the Materials Education Chapter 3 . . . The first time is the discussion of how to create a flox corner on Page 3-13 . . . and the second is in the filling and inspection requirements on Page 3-16 (Drawing of Section C-C).

Apparently, you were expected to also have a copy of the Q1 plans laying around your shop. There is a slightly better description and drawing of the glass ribs on Page 10-10 of the Single Seat Quickie Plans as shown below.

ADDITIONAL NOTE: The top drawing below refers to the LEFT WING and the RIGHT WING, but shows the canard. Try not to be confused by this.

. . . The next step is to join the foam cores together. Glass ribs are layed up at the BL10 joint on each side. The BL49 joint is accomplished with micro slurry. Be sure to use slow epoxy. Refer to the education section for core joining information.

After the combination has cured, cut in the Flox Corners at the BL10 joints. Before doing the Flox corners, however, recheck the level lines at the tips and 5 minute the cores to the templates.

CAUTION

The canard foam cores must fit within 1/16" or exotherm damage may result. Core preparation is the single most important factor in obtaining an accurate, strong, and lightweight canard, so don't hurry through this section unless you don't mind regretting it for years to come.

PREPARING THE CANARD CORES FOR GLASSING

At this point, the canard cores should be jigged on your jigging table upside down, 5-minuted and bondoed in place, and able to take a direct hit from a 88 mm howitzer without budging from its location.

Use a hard block to clean up all joggles, excess micro, and any bumps on the canard cores. At either end of the canard center section core, round the joint so that the glass will flow smoothly across the joint. At the T.E. (shear web), round the corner so that the glass will flow smoothly down the face of the shear web.

This is your last chance to do it right, so spend at least another hour making these cores as perfect as you know how. While your at it, check, recheck, and re-recheck all the canard level lines that you can see until you can do it in your sleep. If you are not proud of everything sitting on that jig table, don't go on to the next step until you are.

Although the LS1 Instructions invite you to "Use lumber as "shown" in the Q2 plans." The Canard chapter (Chapter 10) of the Q2 plans doesn't actually have any pictures of this.

Build a framework out of scrap lumber and bondo to hold the canard jigged in place while you turn it over. As shown in the pictures in the MAIN WING chapter in the "Laminating The Top Skin And Top Spar Caps" section, we suggest that the lumber run from tip to tip with a few cross pieces. Don't get fancy, just tie everything together so that the main wing won't move.

Next, when you are sure of your framework)break loose the canard core female jigging templates with a hammer (they won't be needed again), and turn the canard over so that the unglassed cores are upward. Set the canard on the jigging table once again.

Check the canard tip level lines. Jig, and shim, and bondo until the canard tip level lines are absolutely perfect; almost, or maybe, doesn't count. Then use bondo to secure all of the jigging so that a jackhammer will be required to remove the canard from the jigging table.

The pictures with the lumber (on the canard) are actually in the Main Wing chapter (Chapter 9) of the Q2 plans as shown below. And I think the picture shows them building a Single Seat Quickie. How could anyone be confused by this?

Build a framework out of scrap lumber and bondo to hold the main wing jigged in place while you turn it over. As shown in the pictures, we suggest that lumber run from tip to tip with a few cross pieces. Don't get fancy, just tie everything together so that the main wing won't move, (and, yes, we know the pictures show the canard, but we forgot to take some of the main wing jigging).

Next, when you are sure of your framework, break loose the main wing core female jigging templates with a hammer ,(they won't be needed again), and turn the main wing over so that the unglassed cores are upward. Set the main wing on the jigging table once again.

Check the main wing tip level lines. Jig, and shim, and bondo until the main wing tip level lines are perfect; almost doesn't count. Then bondo the heck out of the jigging as if you were expecting a few kids to use your shop for playing cowboys and Indians.

The SIZE of the slot cores is (again) shown on page 5-2 of the Q2 plans.

The problem with that is that the Elevator Foam Slot Cores for the GU canard (shown in the Q2 Plans) are actually attached initially to the Leading Edge of the Canard Foam Core. With the LS1 Canard the Slot foam cores are separate templates. Just be sure to cut the Elevator Slot Foam Cores out of the same pieces of foam that you cut the Leading Edge Foam cores out of as reapeated below:

CANARD CORES

The outboard and inboard canard cores are cut from skewed, parallelogram style blocks, with the exception of the canard center section. The reason for this is to obtain the proper sweep of the canard when the cores are jigged together later.

Begin by squaring up the 10" x 20" X 96" nominal dimension block of polystyrene foam to obtain a length of 51.2", with the skew as indicated. Next, using the sketch provided, hot-wire the outboard canard foam cores. Note that the bottom set of templates are upside down, so as to obtain the proper geometry upon jigging.

Next, find the extra pieces from the 10" x 24" blocks (2) and face them up to the dimensions shown. These two blocks are used for the inboard elevator cores and inboard canard cores. The portions not used will be used later for the outboard elevator cores.

Don't forget the cutouts for the elevato0 torque tubes. After the elevator cores have been hot-wired, cut along one of the lines (e.g.4-A-B) and hot wire down that slot and around the inside (e.g. 4-A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-B-A-4) and out again. Then cut along the other line (e.g. 4-F) and hot-wire along that slot to complete the cut.

The POSITION of the GU slot cores is shown on page 10-6 of the Q2 plans.

However, the plans DO NOT discuss HOW or WHERE to install the brake lines and pitot tube on the LS1 canard. This is one of those areas that will require a discussion with a builder/flyer that has gone befoe you. Hopefully, this page will generate a few comments below, or a future article for the newsletter.

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR SLOT FOAM CORES

This step is critical to having a nice looking canard and elevator union, so follow the directions carefully.

To start out with, the elevator slot foam cores that you hot-wired way back when were pur posely made longer than neces?ary. Your first task is to size them for the correct length. To do this, you must measure your fuselage width at the fuselage/elevator slot foam core junction. Take measurements of the canard, skip ahead to the sec tion on "Mounting The Canard To The Fuselage", and determine that dimension, on either side of BL00. Mark the proper points on the canard. Wait to trim the inboard elevator slot foam cores until after they have been installed on the canard.

Next, determine where to trim the outboard elevator slot foam cores. Since each elevator was made 72" long, measure 6 feet plus 1 inch (for elevator/fuselage clearance) from your first mark outboard and place another mark. This is where the outboard elevator slot foam core will be trimmed, but, as before, wait until after installation to do it.

The elevator slot foam cores are unique in that both the brake line conduit and the pitot tube must run through the lower, forward edge as shown on the sketch.

The pitot tube runs out the right canard, exits at about BL40, and is shaped as shown.

In the right canard, the brake line conduit enters the inboard end of the elevator slot foam core within 1/2" of the top edge, and continues all the way outboard to the end of the outboard elevator slot foam core on the right side of the aircraft. Let the Nylaflow tubing extend about 4" beyond the end of the slot foam core. On the left canard, do the same routing. You should use a router bit in the dremel to route out the foam. Any extra "room" in the foam is filled with dry micro. Both the brake line conduit and pitot tube are installed with 5-MIN dabs to hold them in place, and then surrounded with dry micro, as shown. Keep both lines, but particularly the brake line conduit, as straight as practical. The pitot tube tubing should extend into the fuselage about 12".

The elevator slot foam cores are installed to the canard shear web with micro-slurry on the foam cores and epoxy on the shear web (don't forget to remove the Peel Ply!), plus a few dabs of 5-MIN to keep the two _ttached during cure.

It is easier to check clearances top and bottom if the canard is jigged vertically on the jig table. This will also keep the joint from running. By this time, you should be so good at jigging, that we won't even talk about how to do it.

The important point to remember is that at the shear web attach point along the span, the top and bottom of the elevator slot foam cores should flow smoothly into the top and bottom surfaces of the canard, respectively. If the elevator slot foam cores want to stick up a little bit, this is OK since that can be sanded later. Any dip, however, will have to be filled with micro. When you have done your best to carefully fit the shear web joint top and bottom then mix up the micro-slurry and epoxy and join the elevator slot foam cores to the canard.

Once the attachment has cured, then the fun can begin. Trim the elevator slot foam cores back to the "Eventual Trim Line". Next, sand down the "tails" so that you can achieve a minimum of 0.4" of glass-to-glass bond with the inside lamination, while at the same time fairing everything nicely into the canard contour forward of the shear web. At the glass-to-glass bond area, you must sand away all micro and epoxy and get down to the glass. Spend some time looking at the surfaces getting the best alignment that you can. When everything is ready, laminate 2 BID at 45 degrees to the canard shear web on the elevator slot foam cores, being sure to achieve at least 0.4" of glass-to glass bond, and lapping up onto the canard at 1 east 1". Note that the sketch ca 11 s out dry-mi cro fill if required at the top and bottom of the shear web joint. Trim the inboard and outboard elevator slot foam cores at the marks previously made on the canard.

Your canard should now be looking more like a canard, and less like a lump of foam and glass.

Be careful - Now that you have the Elevator Slot Foam Cores installed - you will be told that it would have been better if you had waited to build the elevators first. Maybe building the elevators should go at the start of the instructions instead of the end?

To fit pants to wing, you may want to fill taper with X-40 foam.

The following recommendation about "toe out" was superceded in 1997 by the David Gall Wheel Alignment. It is strongly suggested that you perform the wheel alignment . . . and perhaps even wait to attach the wheel pants entirely . . . after you are able to place a working load on the canard. Under load (on the ground) the canard will bend and the wheels will splay out throwing off your careful "bench measurements."

Make 4: 1/8" plywood stringers.

Also Make 2: 11.5" balsa wing sections.